I’ve been wanting to share this recipe with you for weeks, but, as sometimes happens, life got in the way. Mostly, I’ve been putting in work on an exciting soon-to-be-launched project with Andrew. More on that soon(ish), and yes, it involves food. Additionally, after six months of squatting in Andrew’s dad’s SoHo apartment (thanks, Mark!), Andrew and I have decided to make our temporary move to NYC a little less temporary. The last month or so has been a whirlwind of apartment hunting — very excited about our new place in Williamsburg — figuring out how to move all of our worldly possessions cross-country, and getting our house in San Francisco ready to sell. Add to that my birthday, visits from a few close friends, plus two West-coast weddings, and it’s safe to say we’ve been pretty busy.
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side dishes
Roasted Red Onions With Thyme
It feels pretty ridiculous to say, but until relatively recent times (I’m talking the last year or so), I didn’t like onions in most applications. As a background note in soups and stock, sure; diced and lightly cooked, or worse, raw, hell no. Most people have an aversion to a few foods, but most people aren’t food writers, and most people don’t dislike such a fundamental ingredient. (What can I say, I’m an odd one.) So it feels a little funny to now be praising a recipe that has onions at its heart.
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Baked Sweet Potatoes With Miso Butter and Scallions
Sweet-leaning vegetables like beets, butternut squash, and sweet potatoes have always been a tough sell for me. (Truly, it’s the earthy-sweet, vaguely-dirty flavor that I have trouble with, not the brix level of these vegetables.) That is, I had trouble with them before I learned how to treat them right. The secret is a classic flavor pairing principle: pair like with like; in this case, bold with bold. This can mean something acidic (think beets and yogurt), something spicy (think butternut squash and ginger), or, in this case, something deeply-savory, even funky (helloooooo, miso).
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Duck Fat Smashed Potatoes
French fries are tempting, but I’ll take a side of duck fat and thyme smashed potatoes over a pile of fries nine times out of 10. (That 10-percent: duck fat fries or shoestring potatoes.) When earthy duck fat meets crisp potato, magic happens. Add a generous dose of freshly-ground pepper and minced thyme — both classic potato pairings — and it doesn’t get much better.
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